Instructions for Growing Habaneros in Thailand

Germinating the seeds: My suggestion is to use a non-soil medium for germination. I've tried 7 different combinations of soil, vermi-compost, cow manure, ground coconut husks and just plain dirt. My germination rate was zero.
I now use coir plugs and get about 90+% germination rates. Peat plugs, Perlite, and rock wool work great. Coffee filters, and or paper towels also work for some people (I didn't have much luck with that either). I have never figured out what the problem is with the soil here regarding germination; but the coir plugs work wonders.
Assuming your seeds germinated; let them grow in the sprouting medium until they have two sets of real leaves. Also make sure there is some root growth out the bottom of the plug. At that point you can pot them up. I plant the coir plug straight into the dirt. If you used a coffee filter or paper towel then gently remove the sprout (don't touch the roots with your fingers) and put it in a light soil mixture. Be careful not to over pot the sprout; a 2'' clay pot would be ideal, but plastic is okay.

Soil: This gets interesting here in Thailand. There is a soil map on my Home page with a link. I highly recommend looking at that and reference the area in which you live. I live in Ratchaburi which is on the western edge of the central plain. The soil here is generally acidic and heavy with clay. Definitely not suitable for growing C. chinense without some serious work at conditioning.

Unless one is growing hydroponically one needs a medium in which to grow plants. That medium is soil, whether one plants in pots or in the ground. Here in Central Thailand soil presents a challenge for those wanting to grow Capsicum chinense. Various Annums and frutescens are common cultivars here in Thailand and having had a little experience with them I can say they are relatively easy to germinate and grow. Capsicum chinense, on the other hand, presents a true challenge and proper soil is at the top of that list. Next in order is obtaining the proper nutrients; I prefer organic and that will be my preferred method. Somewhat surprisingly temperature is the third biggest challenge; for at least a few months of the year it's too hot and the plants may not form buds, flowers, and thereby no pods. This is likely in the months of March, April, and possibly May and June (more about that later).
Check my previous post for this:  http://preview.tinyurl.com/Soil-Map-Thailand 
This will tell you the likely soil type in your area.
Soil: here in central Thailand the soil is clay and acidic. C. chinense is best suited to a soil ph of 5.5 to 6.5. After our house had been built we had topsoil brought in; so we have 8 to 12" of good soil. That's fine for growing a lawn but not too good for a decent garden. If that is your situation then pots are the answer and a commercial potting soil needs to be found. I have never bought a soil sight unseen; always ask to open a bag so you can look at it, feel it, and smell it.
A good soil should be a well mixed loam;
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From Wikipedia, the free encyclopedia

Loam field
"Loam is soil composed of sandsilt, and clay in relatively even concentration (about 40-40-20% concentration respectively).[1] Loam soils generally contain more nutrients and humus than sandy soils, have better infiltration and drainage than silty soils, and are easier to till than clay soils. Loams are gritty, moist, and retain water easily."
"Loam is considered ideal for gardening and agricultural uses because it retains nutrients well and retains water while still allowing the water to flow freely. This soil is found in a majority of successful farms in regions around the world known for their fertile land. Loam soil feels mellow and is easy to work over a wide range of moisture conditions.There are many different types of loam soils, each with slightly different characteristics, and with some draining liquids more efficiently than others."

"Different proportions of sand, silt, and clay give rise to types of loam soils: sandy loam, silty loam, clay loam, sandy clay loam, silty clay loam, and loam.[1] A soil dominated by one or two of the three particle size groups can behave like loam if it has a strong granular structure, promoted by a high content of organic matter. However, a soil that meets the textural definition of loam can lose its characteristic desirable qualities when it is compacted, depleted of organic matter, or has clay dispersed throughout its fine-earth fraction."
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The best soil I have found comes from Kanchanaburi Province; it meets the 40%-40%-20% criteria for a good loam. It does tend toward compacting over time. This is easily avoided by adding 30% by volume of a rinsed, coarse (medium coarse), coconut coir. Coconut coir is available as fine, medium and coarse. This is available from any nursery selling a broad range of plants, pots, fertilizers, and soil.

In the end, one may have to accept a soil that is available but not ideal for any number of reasons. If that's the case, there are many things one can do to make it work.  Be sure to ask if it has any fertilizer in it; the seller almost always says yes; that may or may not be true. Do Not Add Any Fertilizer! Wait until it's obvious the plants need feeding.
Composting; is one of the best ways to get some top quality soil. Good, properly done compost can be planted directly, but is most economically used by mixing with lesser quality soil thereby making it a productive planting medium. One doesn't need any fancy barrels or other commercial composting containers to make compost. My wife collects leaves, grass clippings, twigs, general yard debris, and we throw our kitchen scraps/waste on the pile also. This is an open pile in our yard. Every few days she turns the pile over with a hoe, moving the pile a little each time. If it gets too dry, water it. It doesn't smell and after 4 - 6 months we have usable compost. Once you've got a working colony of micro-organisms keep feeding them and do not use up all the compost at one time. It's kind of like a sourdough starter. We now have some very healthy worms which I hadn't seen before.
Manures; cow, horse, chicken, duck, bat, and pig will all work very well and are readily available here in Thailand. All manures need to be aged and composted well before applying to the soil. Cow and horse manure have a high fiber/organic content and add a lot to soil quality as well as nutrients for the plants.
Wood ash; is a great source of calcium, phosphorus, potassium, magnesium and sulfur. All of these are critical nutrients for successful growing of Capsicum.
Eggshells; are another source of calcium re a previous post.
Vermi-Compost Tea; Recently I've learned of Vermi-Compost Tea. It is rich in beneficial bacteria. Three days ago I bought the equipment to make some. The equipment is an air pump (the kind used for aquariums) and a couple of air-stones. Here's the recipe;
1-1/2 c. Vermi-Compost
2 tbsp. molasses or raw sugar (food for the microbes)
1 gal. chlorine free water
Combine all ingredients in a bucket w/lid and run air through it for 24 hours. Strain the solids out (cheese cloth works) and mix 1 part tea with equal part water and spray foliar or pour in the soil.
I had made 4 gallons which yielded 8 gallons when mixed 1:1 with, in my case, rain water. I fed the tea to all 30 of my plants. Here's a pic of the pump set-up. Click on the picture for a larger image;


I'm not sure how often to apply this, but I won't apply again until I see a result from the first dose. I'll update my daily blog as things progress.
 
Having good quality soil here in Thailand is relatively easy; after a lot of research, some failures, and some sore back muscles. 
The purpose of this blog is to create a shortcut to a successful crop.
Cheers.